Buying a diamond necklace or ring? This is how the precious stones are analysed

Do you want to buy a diamond necklace or ring because you cannot resist the brilliance of our precious stones? Specialists at certification labs such as GIA,  IGI and HRD examine the diamonds that we sell at BAUNAT closely, to verify whether they are a natural or synthetic diamond or even an imitation. But they analyse other qualities of the precious stones, such as the 4 C’s, that determine their value.

To examine the gem stones in depth, the experts use a number of special research instruments. What equipment do the specialists use, and what exactly do they use it for? Take a look into the toolbox of the diamond expert at GIA ...

With the initial set of tools we discuss here, the experts do not even have to touch a precious stone to examine it. He or she simply illuminates it with light, and then studies how the light’s composition is changed by its interaction with the stone.

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How Do Diamond Experts Analyze Gemstones for Quality and Authenticity?

When buying a diamond necklace or ring from BAUNAT, have you ever wondered how experts determine if your diamond is natural, synthetic, or an imitation? Certification labs like GIA, IGI, and HRD use sophisticated technology to analyze diamonds without even touching them.

These specialists employ visual spectrophotometers to study how diamonds absorb light, revealing their true color. Infrared spectrophotometers identify diamond types and detect treatments. To confirm authenticity, experts use Raman spectrometers and X-ray technology to analyze crystal structures and chemical compositions.

For detailed examination, photo-microscopes magnify inclusions 100 times, while De Beers' DiamondView instrument distinguishes synthetic from natural diamonds through ultraviolet fluorescence patterns.

BAUNAT sells only diamonds certified by GIA, IGI, and HRD, ensuring customers receive genuine, high-quality gemstones sourced from reputable producers.

What is a visual spectrophotometer used for?

A gemstone can partially absorb visible light. To study that phenomenon, the specialists use a visual spectrophotometer. This device shines a narrow ray of visible light through the stone: from light with the lowest frequency (longest wavelength) that we as people can still see as red light, to light with the highest frequency (shortest wavelength), which we see as violet light. Light with certain frequencies (and certain colours), is absorbed less, and thus escapes from the diamond. This escaping light determines which colour the diamond appears to be.

The spectrophotometer captures the emerging light. The end result is a graph that reflects either the radiated or the absorbed light per wavelength. By studying that graph, the expert discovers among others, where the colour of a diamond originates from.

Buyer takeaway: Detects subtle colour origins by measuring which visible wavelengths a diamond absorbs. For buyers this means labs can distinguish natural tints from unusual colour causes; ask the seller for the lab's colour grade and any spectral notes when colour is important for your purchase.

What is an infrared spectrophotometer for?

A gemstone also absorbs infrared light. We cannot perceive that light with the naked eye, we feel it as heat instead. The stone can absorb, transmit or reflect the infrared light.

In order to map this phenomenon, for example, the expert exposes a diamond to an infrared spectrophotometer. It emits light with different infrared frequencies or wavelengths. This is how the researcher can find out which type of diamond he or she is analysing. A Type I diamond gets its colour from chemical impurities, whilst a Type II diamond get its colour from structural deviations in the crystal form. 

At the same time the specialist discovers whether a coloured gemstone has been treated with substances such as resin and oil. This malicious technique is used to improve the gloss. But the research method with infrared light also helps to, for example, discover diamonds that have been irradiated to improve their colour.

With this infrared spectrometer you can discover, among other things, whether a coloured gemstone has been treated- BAUNAT.

Buyer takeaway: Reveals chemical impurities and structural types that explain colour and flag certain treatments. If you are considering a coloured or high‑value stone, request IR screening results or a recognized lab report that comments on treatment indicators.

What do the diamond experts investigate with a Raman spectrometer?

With a Raman-spectrometer the specialist shines a laser light of almost one single colour onto a certain material. Most of the light does not change colour, or change wavelength. But a small part of the light wavelength does change. The exact extent of this varies from molecule to molecule. According to the strength of the effect, molecules can be identified. In other words …

By comparing the light emitted with values of other materials that were previously examined with a Raman spectrometer, the expert can find out perfectly which material they are examining. For example, a diamond.

Buyer takeaway: Provides a molecular fingerprint to confirm whether the material is a diamond or another substance. Insist on an independent lab confirmation for valuable pieces so you know you are buying a genuine diamond rather than an imitation.

And what does an X-ray diffractometer do?

A mouthful, isn’t it? With this device, the expert examines the crystal structure of a precious stone. For this purpose, a sample of it is ground into powder (if this is possible, of course) and then exposed to X-rays. These rays are broken or bent at certain angles, depending on the atomic structure of the crystal.

By comparing the pattern by which the X-rays differ with patterns that were previously determined by different types of precious stones, the specialist knows exactly which type of gemstone lies in front of them and ends up in your diamond necklace later on. For this the expert has to sacrifice a small sample of the stone.

Buyer takeaway: Maps crystal structure to identify natural versus some synthetic forms, though sampling may be needed. For rare or exceptional stones, ask whether any destructive testing was performed and request documentation of the findings.

Why does an expert also investigate X-ray fluorescence?

Again not a simple term, we know. But the science behind it allows an expert to very quickly discover the chemical elements of a gemstone, albeit without knowing the exact proportions. And that without the researcher having to sacrifice part of the stone.

As with the diffractometer above, the expert irradiates a gemstone with X-rays. The material itself then emits other X-rays, which are typical of the chemical elements of which the diamond is composed. We call this phenomenon X-ray fluorescence. This is a variation on ordinary fluorescence, a phenomenon where a substance emits light when it is illuminated. An example of this? Just think of the fluorescent vest in your car.

Buyer takeaway: Quickly identifies the chemical elements present and helps spot treatments without damaging the stone. Buyers should prefer non‑destructive screening results on the certificate, especially when provenance or treatment history matters.

Another spectrometer, to learn: LA-ICP-MS

Want to know how a specialist knows the proportions of chemical elements in a gemstone? He or she can determine this with an LA-ICP mass spectrometer. This device focuses a laser beam on a sample of the precious stone, removing small particles. These are then taken by a running gas to a so-called plasma torch.

The torch heats these particles in such a way that they completely disintegrate into their individual atoms. This allows the researcher to accurately map every quantity of each chemical element of the gemstone, down to the lowest concentrations. An amazing result, and only a very limited amount of diamond is lost.

Both the research of the X-ray fluorescence and the LA-ICP mass spectrometer allow you to check whether the diamond that ends up in your diamond necklace or ring, is natural or synthetic, or if it has been treated.

Buyer takeaway: Measures trace elements with great precision, supporting detection of treatments and sometimes origin claims. This level of testing is most relevant for investment or collector purchases; ask for trace‑element reports when provenance is a deciding factor.

Instruments for in-depth imaging

A final series of devices provides the expert with extreme close-up photos of certain characteristics or inclusions in a gemstone. This allows the scientist to discover how the material has formed and, in certain cases, even where the stone comes from.

With a photo-microscope for example, photographs taken of inclusions and other aspects of gemstones are enlarged one hundred times.

Photo-microscopes are used to photograph gems for your diamond chain, enlarged up to a hundred times - BAUNAT.

In addition, the diamond producer De Beers developed the DiamondView-instrument, a device to distinguish synthetic from natural diamonds. This device shines ultraviolet light on the gemstone, after which it fluoresces.

Depending on whether the diamond was created by the forces of mother nature or in the lab, the colour of the fluorescence and its pattern differ. With a synthetic diamond there is no phosphorescence, unlike its natural counterpart. Phosphorescence is a phenomenon in which the gemstone, after being exposed to light, shortly lights up afterwards itself.

Buyer takeaway: Provides inclusion photos, growth pattern images and fluorescence data that visually support grading and origin conclusions. Always request any inclusion maps or imaging plates for significant purchases so the stone's characteristics are documented for resale and insurance.

Common treatments buyers should know

Fracture filling - what it is: small surface‑reaching cracks are filled with a glassy substance to mask breaks and improve apparent clarity. How it affects appearance/value: treated stones can look clearer at a glance but typically have lower market value and must be disclosed. Which instruments detect it: visible under magnification and often flagged by Raman or infrared signatures and by inclusion photos.

HPHT (high pressure, high temperature) - what it is: a laboratory process that can change a diamond's colour, making it whiter or producing fancy colours in some cases. How it affects appearance/value: HPHT can change colour significantly and therefore affects market value; full disclosure is required. Which instruments detect it: infrared screening and DiamondView imaging commonly reveal HPHT indicators; LA‑ICP‑MS and trace‑element tests provide supporting evidence.

Irradiation - what it is: exposure to radiation to alter or intensify colour. How it affects appearance/value: irradiation can produce vivid colours or modify body colour but treated stones are disclosed and priced differently from naturally coloured diamonds. Which instruments detect it: infrared and photoluminescence tools, plus specialized imaging, can reveal irradiation markers.

Coating - what it is: a thin surface layer applied to change apparent colour or gloss. How it affects appearance/value: coatings can be temporary and are removable; coated stones are treated and have reduced market value. Which instruments detect it: visible inspection with magnification, XRF for surface elements, and spectrophotometry often reveal coatings.

Note: grading of the 4Cs and disclosure practices remain the responsibility of grading laboratories; always request the lab report and any treatment comments before purchase.

Some more basic instruments

In addition to high-tech devices as discussed above, diamond specialists also use some 'simpler' devices. For example, a magnifying glass or a microscope, but also a polariscope. With the latter device the specialist can distinguish gems by how the light is broken, either once or twice. The first type includes diamonds. Emerald, ruby and sapphire are part of the second category.

What instrument results mean for buyers and certificates

Laboratory instruments do more than satisfy a scientist's curiosity; their findings directly affect authenticity statements, certificate comments and ultimately the market value of a stone. For a buyer, the important point is not the name of the machine but what its result says on a lab report and what that means for resale, insurance and long‑term confidence.

Visual spectrophotometer - plain language

What it detects: how the diamond absorbs and transmits visible light, explaining subtle body colour and tint. How it appears on a report: a lab comment may note specific absorption bands or a measured colour range. Buyer implication: slight natural colour deviations detected by this method can affect the colour grade and therefore price; ask for the lab colour grade if appearance is a major factor in your choice.

Infrared spectrophotometer - plain language

What it detects: chemical impurities and structural types that explain why a diamond has colour or if treatments are present. How it appears on a report: a type designation or a note when treatment indicators are found. Buyer implication: infrared results help separate naturally coloured stones from those altered by treatment or irradiation, which matters for both value and disclosure when reselling or insuring.

Raman spectrometer - plain language

What it detects: the material's molecular fingerprint, used to confirm whether the stone is genuine diamond or another material. How it appears on a report: confirmation of diamond identity or a flag if a non‑diamond substance is identified. Buyer implication: a Raman confirmation reduces the risk of misidentification; insist on a recognized lab report for high‑value purchases.

X‑ray diffractometer (XRD) - plain language

What it detects: the crystal structure, which can identify natural versus some synthetic crystal forms. How it appears on a report: structural identification or a note when testing required a sample. Buyer implication: because XRD can require sampling, its findings are usually detailed in specialist reports; for rare or valuable stones, ask whether any sampling took place and request the results in writing.

X‑ray fluorescence (XRF) - plain language

What it detects: which chemical elements are present at the stone's surface or near‑surface, useful to flag certain treatments or unusual trace elements. How it appears on a report: elemental signatures or a statement that XRF screening was performed. Buyer implication: XRF helps labs detect treatments without damaging the stone, which supports confident valuation and clearer insurance listings.

LA‑ICP‑MS - plain language

What it detects: precise trace‑element composition down to very low concentrations, which can identify treatments and sometimes point to geographic origin. How it appears on a report: detailed trace‑element data or a reference to provenance testing. Buyer implication: trace‑element profiles add strong scientific support to claims about origin or treatment; they are especially relevant for collectors and investment buyers seeking provenance-backed pieces.

Imaging (photo‑microscope, DiamondView) - plain language

What it detects: inclusions, growth patterns and fluorescence behaviour that reveal natural formation versus lab growth or treatments. How it appears on a report: photographic plates, inclusion maps or fluorescence descriptions. Buyer implication: clear imaging supports grading decisions and helps future buyers visually verify the stone; request any inclusion photos or DiamondView notes when considering an important purchase.

Quick checklist for buyers

  • For routine purchases at typical retail levels, make sure the diamond carries a current report from a reputable lab that lists the 4Cs and notes any treatments.
  • For higher‑value or investment purchases, ask whether the lab performed infrared, Raman or LA‑ICP‑MS screening and request any inclusion photography or provenance notes.
  • If a certificate mentions treatment indicators, obtain full disclosure and consider how that affects resale and insurance.
  • When in doubt, request a written lab comment rather than a verbal assurance from a seller; documented instrument results give the clearest protection for future value.

How can you guarantee the quality of your diamond necklace?

With such instruments, institutions such as GIA succeed in accurately and reliably determining the quality of precious stones. They can also make the distinction between synthetic and natural diamonds, or bring treated diamonds to light.

Because BAUNAT only sells diamonds that are certified by GIA, IGI and HRD, you can always be certain of the quality when you buy a diamond necklace or ring at BAUNAT. We also guarantee that we only purchase gems from reputable producers.

With all this certainty, are you even more convinced that you want to buy the diamond necklace or ring that you have in mind? Shop immediately in our collection of necklaces and rings or contact our experts for additional advice.

  • Stephanie Hesters

  • BAUNAT Antwerp
  • As the Head of Diamond Buying at BAUNAT, Stephanie has an extensive knowledge of the diamond and the evolution of diamond prices. Thanks to her broad product knowledge gained throughout her years at BAUNAT and the Diamond Foundation Course by De Beers, Stephanie advises our customers interested in the investment side of diamonds to optimize every investment. To support her skills she has a bachelor’s degree in Business Management together with her master’s in Communication.

    About Stephanie Hesters (also known as Stephanie Lasters)

    Stephanie Hesters, sometimes listed online as Stephanie Lasters, is Head of Diamond Buying at BAUNAT. She manages diamond sourcing and valuation, advises clients on market trends and pricing, and helps those looking for investment-grade stones. She completed the Diamond Foundation Course by De Beers and holds a bachelor’s degree in Business Management and a master’s in Communication.

    Selected projects & collaborations

    • Eternal Bloom Collection with Princess Delphine of Saxe-Coburg (2026), curator and project lead  -  guided creative direction and diamond selection for an exclusive collection that blends classical motifs with contemporary craftsmanship.

    • Investment Diamonds Advisory Series (2024), author and presenter  -  developed client-facing guides and presentations on diamond valuation and market dynamics for private buyers and collectors.

    • BAUNAT Editorial Features and Product Launches (2022–2025), contributor  -  worked with design and marketing teams to shape product narratives and ensure technical accuracy in launch materials and editorial content.

As the Head of Diamond Buying at BAUNAT, Stephanie has an extensive knowledge of the diamond and the evolution of diamond prices. Thanks to her broad product knowledge gained throughout her years at BAUNAT and the Diamond Foundation Course by De Beers, Stephanie advises our customers interested in the investment side of diamonds to optimize every investment. To support her skills she has a bachelor’s degree in Business Management together with her master’s in Communication.

About Stephanie Hesters (also known as Stephanie Lasters)

Stephanie Hesters, sometimes listed online as Stephanie Lasters, is Head of Diamond Buying at BAUNAT. She manages diamond sourcing and valuation, advises clients on market trends and pricing, and helps those looking for investment-grade stones. She completed the Diamond Foundation Course by De Beers and holds a bachelor’s degree in Business Management and a master’s in Communication.

Selected projects & collaborations

• Eternal Bloom Collection with Princess Delphine of Saxe-Coburg (2026), curator and project lead  -  guided creative direction and diamond selection for an exclusive collection that blends classical motifs with contemporary craftsmanship.

• Investment Diamonds Advisory Series (2024), author and presenter  -  developed client-facing guides and presentations on diamond valuation and market dynamics for private buyers and collectors.

• BAUNAT Editorial Features and Product Launches (2022–2025), contributor  -  worked with design and marketing teams to shape product narratives and ensure technical accuracy in launch materials and editorial content.