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The history of oval diamonds

Today, most diamonds are by far prepared in the classic circular cut, for example, for setting in a diamond ring. The high demand is mainly due to the fact that a round, brilliant-cut diamond is considered to be the most brilliant in the truest sense of the word. Do you want to stand out from the crowd and are looking for a special cut that not everyone wears? Then you should take a closer look at oval diamonds!

The benefits of an oval cut: the elongated shape conveys additional elegance and on top of that, an oval stone with the same carat weight looks slightly larger than a round one.

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What makes oval-cut diamonds a unique choice for jewelry, and how did they evolve into their modern form?

Oval-cut diamonds offer a distinctive alternative to traditional round brilliant cuts, combining elegance with individuality. While oval diamonds have existed for centuries, their modern brilliant cut was pioneered in 1957 by Russian diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan, who learned from his uncle Abraham Tolkowsky. Kaplan's innovative technique transformed previously unwearable damaged stones into smaller, flawless diamonds.

Oval diamonds possess several appealing characteristics. Their elongated shape creates an illusion of larger size compared to round diamonds of equal carat weight. While they may display a "bow tie" effect - a shadow through the center visible from certain angles - this isn't considered a flaw. The ideal length-to-width ratio is typically 1:4, though this can vary based on the ring design.

These unique stones are particularly popular for second engagements or among those seeking to express their individuality through distinctive jewelry pieces.

The modern oval cut

Even though oval-cut diamonds have existed in rings for hundreds of years, they only appeared in the modern brilliant cut in 1957, first accomplished by the Russian diamond cutter Lazare Kaplan, who learned his craft from his famous uncle Abraham Tolkowsky. Kaplan became known for his sophisticated technique of splitting damaged stones or diamonds with pronounced inclusions, previously largely considered to be worthless, and splitting them up into smaller diamonds so that the smaller stones were flawless at the end. However, his great breakthrough came with the oval cut, which still secures him a place among the greats of diamond cutters today.

What do you have to look out for when it comes to oval diamonds?

The ratio of length to width varies with oval-cut diamonds; a good guide value is an aspect ratio of 1:4, also depending on the type of ring. For a ring with smaller diamonds surrounding a central oval stone, for example, we recommend a slightly greater length in relation to the width in contrast to a solitaire ring.

As with all asymmetrical cuts, oval diamond rings can have the so-called “bow tie” effect, which gets its name from the shadow cast through the centre of the diamond in the shape of a bow tie. It is not an indication of a flaw or a bad cut; however, there are also completely different opinions among experts as to whether or not this effect, which can only be perceived from close up and from a very specific angle, is desirable. For most oval-cut diamonds this effect is not very pronounced; for some stones it is stronger and it is hard to avoid completely without affecting the quality of the diamond. This is decided by personal taste alone.

An extraordinary diamond in an individually designed ring, which also emphasises the uniqueness of its wearer, is particularly beautiful. They are also ideal for those are getting married for a second time because the ring for the second engagement should differ as much as possible from the first engagement ring, should there be one.

Are you looking for a fast and efficient way to design a highly individual, perfect piece of jewellery? The BAUNAT experts will be happy to advise you and help you from the design right through to implementation. Get in touch!

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